After seven trips to Japan, I longed to see another part of Asia. I'd been warned that Japan isn't really representative of the region; it's too orderly, too mannered, just too low key. So I wanted the real experience, while wondering at the same time if I'd be able to handle it.
I'm still wondering. Singapore is
Asia For Dummies; it's the lite version
for the linguistically and culturally impaired. A city-state that's organized
and administered within an inch of its life, where failing to flush a public
toilet is a crime and chewing gum is a banned substance. The libertarian in
me is appalled. But the comfort-loving traveler thinks the libertarian should
sit quietly and pay attention to results. Like the amazing combination of
tall buildings and vast greenery I could see from my hotel room window. Or
the well dressed and prosperous-looking crowds wandering along every major
street. Better yet, a place where I could read the signs and talk to
shopkeepers without playing Charades. I've had a tougher time getting around
in Germany or France.
The guidebooks all speak in the most glowing terms about the
Raffles Hotel, a grand and
glorious nineteenth century pile that takes up a full city block. Named for
the English founder of the colony, the Raffles is a bit too grand
and glorious for my tastes; I prefer the more casual luxury of the Four
Seasons. But I wasn't entirely intimidated; we returned to the Raffles that
evening to experience a couple of
Singapore
Slings at the Long Bar before heading down to Boat Quay for dinner.
The Raffles isn't the only impressive bit of architecture in town. A few
blocks away we found the fire station at left, whose brick strips lend a
jaunty air to an otherwise serious enterprise. But a little further south
toward the river we found the truly remarkable structure at right. Just what
is it about the use of primary colors on all the window shutters that so
captured my attention and imagination? I just had to know who was responsible
for such a cheerful and warm exterior. It turns out that the building is home
to the Ministry of Information and Art. The Art part fits. But why does that
first part sound so sinister? Is it just that when governments say
Information I immediately think Propaganda? I can only hope
that the bureaucrats within find it hard to think totalitarian thoughts in such
cheery surroundings.
Clarke Quay is pretty, colorful and totally dead around ten on a weekday
morning. Once upon a time the riverfront was a place of serious commerce.
But now it's taken up with bars, restaurants and market stalls that welcome
us to part with our hardly earned dollars. After a dozen years in
marketing, I especially liked the shop on
the left. I've met and endured more than my share of whizzo marketing people,
especially since the dotcom bubble first inflated. Speaking of marketing,
what better example of in-your-face marketing than Hooters? I will avoid
commenting on the irony of a Hooters in Singapore, where the female population
tends more toward the willowy. The gentlemen grinning in front of this
particular establishment is soon to be famous thriller writer
Barry Eisler,
a lone voice of sanity in a startup world gone mad.
Singapore is a study in contrasts, none better than the juxtaposition of the
downtown skyscrapers at left and Chinatown at right. These two scenes are
literally next to each other. And although the government has done a lot to
spruce up Chinatown, the combination of heat and humidity is doing its best
to keep things from looking too perfect.
Walking through the streets of Chinatown, I looked up and saw the remarkable
structure at left. This is part of the Hindu Temple of Sri Mariamman,
which may well be the
most colorful and welcoming religious site I've ever encountered. (The temple
is situated between Mosque Street and Pagoda Street and between South Bridge
Road and New Bridge Road. Which isn't the most original group of names I've
ever heard. Although having grown up at 50th Avenue and 206th Street in
Queens, I guess I can't act all that superior.) You can see one side of the
mosque at right, adjacent to the charmingly named Five Foot Way. Wish I'd
had time to investigate further. Is it a shop for short people? Would they
let me in? I'm not that much over five feet...
At left is Boat Quay, which is actually behind and to the right of the
coathanger bridge in the skyscraper picture. I took this shot around
eleven, which is why things are so quiet. Things pick up quite a lot after
the sun goes down. It's a funny experience to walk down the path and be
invited into bar after bar and restaurant after restaurant. Especially when
selecting a place to eat is pure guesswork. Fortunately the food was good,
and not too spicy for what remains of my tastebuds.
And the people watching opportunities (okay, girl watching) are even better.
At right you can see what the office buildings look like from Boat Quay.
It isn't really that bright; that's just what you get when you leave
things in the hands of your camera. But it's an impressive sight even with
less light. And a fitting end to my visit. The following morning at 5:30
we were off to Tokyo. But I'll be back. And next time I'm going to spend
more time exploring my destination than I did in getting there!
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